HFA in the Eternal City
Thomas Cole (13.XII.2005)
Anno Domini 2005
November
21. (M) We depart Dulles International Airport.
22. (T) Our first day in Rome: we arrive in the 11 O’Clock Hour at Fiumicino. After throwing down our luggage in our Casa Santa Maria alle Fornaci, we took to St. Peter’s, just a few blocks to the North. This was plenty for our exhausted group, although I led a goodly number to Santo Spirito in Sassia on the way back. Mass was at 5 PM with Father MacIsaac in the Church of Santa Maria alle Fornaci. We were exhausted that evening, and called it a night.
23. (W) This was a full day that began with a Wednesday Audience with our Holy Father, Pope Benedict XVI. That afternoon, we regrouped for a guided tour of San Paolo fuori le mura, the Catacombs of Domitilla (where Fr. MacIsaac said Mass), and finally the three Churches at Tre Fontane: Ss. Vincenzo e Anastasia, Santa Maria in Scala Coeli, and San Paolo alle Tre Fontane. Unless mistaken, a small group went to the Janiculum Hill that night after a Rosary in front of St. Peter’s.
24. (T) This day began with Mass in the crypt of St. Peter’s, with Father MacIsaac. That complete, we journeyed to the Vatican Museums where our guide, Paola, led us with these ear pieces. Although not originally part of the tour, I persuaded her to show us the Raphael Rooms before we went to the Sistine Chapel. After the chapel, we went to St. Peter’s, where she showed us a few things. The guided tour ended with a trip to a nearby shop, where Paola did her best to sell us stuff. That afternoon, Mr. Woltering and I led the group on a tour of the churches along the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele: San Giovanni dei Fiorentini, Chiesa del Gesu, Sant’Andrea Della Valle, and finally, Chiesa Nuova. Night activity? [Piazza Navona & Campo di Fiori?]
25. (F) That Friday, we began the day with Mass in the Rooms of Saint Ignatius of Loyola with Fr. Mac Isaac. The city labor strike blocked the plans to go to the Lateran, so we did the Campo Marzio area: San Ignazio, San Agostino and San Luigi dei Francesi before lunch, and then the Pantheon, Santa Maria sopra Minerva (and a wait for Mr. Woltering), and Santa Maria della Vittoria after. During that lunch break, I went to Sant’Euchachio’s for some coffee with Mr. & Mrs. Barren. After that, most of the die-hard group went with me and Mr. Woltering to the Capuchin crypt, the Spanish Steps, and Santi Ambrogio e Carlo (where Sarah Barren set off the alarm). That night, after dinner, I led a group in the intermittent rain to Giolitti’s for Gelato.
26. (S) Saturday starts with our arriving late to Santa Maria Maggiore for Mass in the Pauline Chapel with Fr. MacIsaac. After a half-Mass, we tour the Basilica. After returning to the Hotel, I go with the Barrens (-Sarah) and walk the Ponte Sant’Angelo. The whole group meets up that afternoon for a tour of the Colosseum. I ride the tour bus there, then go off on my own Church walk. I went from the Colosseum, past the Circus Maximus to the Bocca della Verita. From there, to San Giorgio in Velabro, then to the Forum. I then walked a round about way back to XII Aposoli (closed), Gesu (closed), San Ignazio, San Agnese in Agone (closed), into a church of the Nativity, Chiesa Nuova (closed), and then took a bus back to Santa Francesca Romana. After that, I visited the twin churches of Our Lady on Piazza Venezia. That brought me to the time to meet the group for Vespers at St. Peter’s with Benedict XVI. Night activity?
27. (S) Sunday begins with me leading a group of early risers (Barrens, Phans, and Rohr boys), to the Cupola of St. Peter’s. We then went to the Crypt of the Basilica. We attended high Mass at St. Peter’s, and made it outside for the Angelus with Benedict XVI. That afternoon, we go to the church of Santa Maria in Aracoeli, and after the buses foil our Lateran plans, go to the Mamertine Prison and San Pietro in Vincoli. I lead a group of fast walkers to San Martino ai Monti, San Alphonso, past Santa Prassede (closed for Mass).
28. (M) Day trip to Assisi. After pot shop, we head to old town Assisi. Eduardo starts us at Santa Chiara, then to Chiesa Nuova, followed by Santa Maria sopra Minerva, and finally San Francesco. Afternoon to ourselves, I wander by San Ruffino. Mass with Father Poumade in Chapel of St. Catherine in the crypt of San Francesco. That afternoon we go to Santa Maria degli Angeli in Assisi, before heading home. A die hard group goes to the Trevi Fountain that night.
29. (T) To the Lateran in the Morning. Mass in the Colonna Chapel with Father Poumade. Then Scala Santa & Santa Croce in Gerusalemme. After lunch I lead a few folks (Barrens & Phans) on a walk to San Ivo, Sant’Agnese in Agone, (both closed), Santa Maria dell’Anima, and Chiesa Nuova (closed). Evening Shopping with Dr. Belleville. That night visit Christendom campus, and have dinner with Spierings, Mary Rose, Christina Denton, and Niall O’Donnell. Meet HFA in front of St. Peter’s before bed.
30. (W) Mass in Italian at Santa Maria alle Fornaci. I run to Vatican Post Office with Anthony Barren. Departure for Home via Charles de Gaulle.
The Churches and Holy Sites of Each Day
*- Churches or sites marked with the asterisk were not part of the main group tours,
but were visited by smaller groups with Mr. Cole.
22.XI, Tuesday, Feast of St. Cecilia:
San Pietro in Vaticano [St. Peter’s at the Vatican]: The great Vatican Basilica, St. Peter’s. There is so much to mention, I can only give the briefest of summaries here! In this basilica is buried most of the popes, including St. Peter, St. Leo the Great, St. Gregory the Great, St. Pius X, Blessed Innocent XI, Blessed John XXIII, and John Paul II. Also buried here are the Stuarts, St. Josaphat, and the Apostles Simon and Jude. In the realm of art and architecture, notable is the dome of Michelangelo, the façade of Carlo Maderno, and the baldacchino and colonnade of Gianlorenzo Bernini.
*Santo Spirito in Sassia: A group went with Mr. Cole to this church on the way back to the Casa from St. Peter’s. This is the Church of Divine Mercy in Rome. It was originally founded by the King of Wessex, and later embellished in the reign of Pope Sixtus V (1585-90).
Santa Maria alle Fornaci: This was the modest Trinitarian Church next to the Casa where we stayed.
23.XI, Wednesday, Feast of St. Clement:
San Paolo fuori le mura [Saint Paul’s Outside the Walls]: This is the Patriarchal Basilica where Saint Paul the Apostle is buried. It is memorable for its medallions of all of the popes, and for the splendid courtyard in the front with its statue of Paul. This church is Romanesque in style, rebuilt in the 19th century imitating the earlier design of the church.
Catacombs of Domitilla: One of several groups of Catacombs, it was this section that we visited and had Mass.
Ss. Vincenzo e Anastasia (at Tre Fontane): This was one of the three churches at the Tre Fontane (three fountain) area where St. Paul was martyred. This was the rather plain medieval Cistercian church.
Santa Maria in Scala Coeli [St. Mary’s at the Stairs of Heaven]: This was the tiny baroque church that had the Eastern Iconostasis in one chapel, and the crypt of St. Bernard of Clairvaux. This, too, was at Tre Fontane.
San Paolo alle Tre Fontane: This was the Church of St. Paul that stands at the very site of Paul’s beheading. It has the unique mosaic floor, and the three springs within its walls.
24.XI, Thursday, Feast of the Vietnamese Martyrs:
San Giovanni dei Fiorentini [St. John of the Florentines]: This is the Florentine Church in the city of Rome. San Giovanni is right across the Tiber from St. Peter’s. It is the burial place of the architect Borromini. It is also noteworthy for the statues on the façade, and for the statue of St. John the Baptist over the altar.
Chiesa del Gesu [Church of Jesus]: Often referred to simply as “The Gesu.” This is the Jesuit headquarters church in Rome. It is a splendid baroque church – the prototype of this style, in fact. Here is buried St. Ignatius of Loyola, and is housed the arm of St. Francis Xavier. Next door are the rooms of St. Ignatius, where he lived and died.
Sant’Andrea della Valle [St. Andrew’s of the Valley]: This is a Theatine Church on the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele. It is the burial place of Popes Pius II and Pius III; also St. Jospeph Mary Tomasi. It is memorable for its large dome, and the giant paintings of St. Andrew’s martyrdom around the altar.
Chiesa Nuova [New Church]: This, officially called Santa Maria in Vallicella, is the burial place of St. Philip Neri. It is a sumptuously decorated baroque church on the Corso Vittorio E..
25.XI, Friday, Feast of St. Catherine of Alexandria:
San Ignazio: This baroque church of Saint Ignatius of Loyola is the burial place of Saints Robert Bellarmine, Aloysius Gonzaga, and John Berchmans. It is also the resting place of Pope Gregory XV. The ceilings that “open to the skies,” and the false (painted) dome make this church memorable.
San Agostino: This church of St. Augustine has several notable sites and pieces of art: the tomb of St. Monica, a Bernini High Altar, a Raphael painting, and a painting of Our Lady by Caravaggio. What else can be said? It has a ceiling similar to that of Santa Maria sopra Minerva, i.e., painted blue with stars.
San Luigi dei Francesi [St. Louis of the French]: This baroque church is the French national church in Rome. The Caravaggio paintings of St. Matthew are its most famous feature, although we were chased out before getting that far into the church!
Pantheon: This unusual church was once a pagan temple dedicated to “all the gods.” It is now a church dedicated to Our Lady of the Martyrs. It is notable for its massive concrete dome, the tomb of Raphael, and the tombs of the liberal 19th century Italian kings.
Santa Maria sopra Minerva [St. Mary’s over Minerva]: This Dominican gothic church is the burial place of, amongst others, St. Catherine of Siena, Beato Fra Angelico, Popes Clement VII and Leo X. It is the only truly gothic church in the city of Rome. The statue of Our Lord by Michelangelo and the Bernini elephant obelisk stand out front are notable.
Santa Maria della Vittoria [Our Lady of the Victory]: This little baroque gem is a splendid example of that architectural style. Here is housed the famous Bernini statue of St. Teresa in ecstasy. This is also the location of the tomb of St. Victoria.
*Capuchin Crypt at Santa Maria in Concezione: This is the famous “bone crypt.” In this Capuchin crypt are several chapels decorated with the bones of monks. The original reason behind the crypt – a cemetery had to be moved.
*Santi Ambrogio e Carlo [Saints Ambrose and Charles]: This baroque church dedicated to Saints Ambrose and Charles Borromeo is the church of the Lombards (around Milan) in Rome. It is here that the heart of St. Charles Borrromeo is kept.
26.XI, Saturday, Feast of St. Sylvester:
Santa Maria Maggiore [Saint Mary Major]: This Patriarchal Basilica stands on the Esquiline hill, where, on 5 August, it once snowed to indicate the place the church was to be built. This is another church packed with notable items: the tombs of St. Pius V, Popes Paul V, Sixtus V, Clement VIII, St. Matthias, St. Jerome, Gianlorenzo Bernini, the crib of the Nativity, and the miraculous image of Our Lady Salus Populi Romani. For those interested, the Torriti apse mosaic, and the gold ceiling decorated with the first gold brought back from the New World, are worth noting.
27.XI, Sunday, First Sunday in Advent:
Santa Maria in Aracoeli [St. Mary at the Altar of Heaven]: This church sits atop the Capitoline hill next to the Victor Emmanuel Monument. It possesses a plain brick façade with rather steep stairs leading to it. Inside, St. Helen, mother of Constantine, is buried, and the miraculous Bambino statue is housed.
Mamertine Prison: This is the prison, now a crypt of a church next to the forum, where Ss. Peter and Paul were both imprisoned.
San Pietro in Vincoli [St. Peter in Chains]: This church is the home of the Moses of Michelangelo, the Chains the bound St. Peter, and the tomb of the Machabees.
*San Martino ai Monti: This church of St. Martin was only briefly stopped at by the walkers with Mr. Cole.
*San Alphonso: This Redemptorist church of St. Alphonsus was a quick stop on the walking route that evening. The walkers with Mr. Cole had just a moment to view the image of Our Lady of Perpetual Help.
*Santa Prassede: The home of the pillar of flagellation, the walkers with Mr. Cole could only walk past because Mass was being said.
28.XI, Monday, Feast of St. Catherine Laboure: (Day trip to Assisi)
Santa Chiara [St. Clare] in Assisi: This pink and white church is the location of the tomb of St. Clare. This was our first stop in the city of Assisi in the region of Umbria.
Chiesa Nuova [New Church] in Assisi: This little “new Church” was the church built on the location of the home of St. Francis and his father. Here is preserved the cell where St. Francis was imprisoned.
Santa Maria sopra Minerva [St. Mary over Minerva] in Assisi: This church, formerly a pagan temple to Minerva, is marked by its columns and bell tower our front.
San Francesco [St. Francis] in Assisi: This 13th century Italian gothic basilica is the location of the tomb of St. Francis of Assisi. It is notable for its rather extensive frescoes of the lives of St. Francis, St. Martin and many others. It sits at the west end of Assisi.
Santa Maria degli Angeli [St. Mary of the Angels] in Assisi: This is the church inside the church: the basilica that houses the Porziuncola, the little chapel restored by St. Francis.
29.XI, Tuesday, the Feast of St. Saturninus:
San Giovanni in Laterano [St. John Lateran]: The pope’s cathedral, this basilica is packed with numerous items of note. The Borromini interior and the Galilei façade can hardly compare to the spiritual riches: the relics of the heads of Peter and Paul, the table of the Last Supper, the papal altar of St. Peter, the tombs of Popes Leo XIII, Innocent III, and Martin V.
Scala Santa [The Holy Stairs]: These stairs were those brought back from Jerusalem by St. Helen. They originally lead to the praetorium there, where Our Lord would have been questioned by Pontius Pilate. Upstairs is the “Holy of Holies” where an image reputed to have been painted by St. Luke is kept.
Santa Croce in Gerusalemme [The Holy Cross at Jerusalem]: This church is on the location of what was once the palace of St. Helen. Here is housed the relics of the Passion: part of the inscription, a nail, a couple of thorns, parts of the True Cross, the cross beam of the good thief’s cross, and the finger of St. Thomas.
*Santa Maria dell’Anima: This, the German church in Rome, was visited by only a select few who accompanied Mr. Cole on the last church walk he offered. This is the burial place of Pope Adrian VI, the last non-Italian pope to reign before Pope John Paul II. The painting of Saraceni “Miracle of St. Benno and the Keys of Meissen Cathedral” is memorable, indeed.
As we entered St. Peter’s Square the massiveness of Benini’s Colonade struck me again like two giants arms of the Church embracing all who enter. It was a sunny day in the low 60’s and we took in the beauty of the Square and imposing façade of St. Peter’s Basilica. Dr. Strada oriented us to the former placement of Nero’s Circus, the necropolis and the placement of the original Constantinian Basilica. There was a long line to get into St. Peter’s, which surprised me. New subtle security measures would continue to surprise me throughout the rest of our pilgrimage.
When we arrive at the Cancelleria and found the office of the Apostlic Signatura, we were ushered into a meeting room lined with books on all sides. Archbishop Burke joined us and greeted Frs. Horkan and Carr, Dr. Belleville and me. Dr. Belleville presented the Archbishop with a spiritual bouquet from all the members of the pilgrimage. Then Archbishop Burke sat down and began to explain the role of the Apostolic Signatura. In addition to being like a the Supreme Court for the Church, Archbishop Burke also likened himself to the Attorney General, since his office is responsible for guiding all the other top ecclesiastical courts in the Church. The Archbishop also answered some our questions and reiterated his stance on denying Holy Communion to so-called Catholic politicians who support abortion. He also stressed that pilgrimage is a special time of grace and great time to hear the call of God for young people. Understanding modern distractions, the Archbishop said that every young person is being called and it is up to them to rise above the distractions to hear God’s call. Jet-lag was a distraction some in our group were seriously struggling against.
After our audience with Archbishop Burke, we broke up for lunch at nearby Campo dei Fiori and met back at the convent for Mass celebrated by Fr. Horkan. When Mass was over we took the rest of the day to take in St. Peter’s Basilica. By that time everyone was very tired, but they were also hungry. We supped at a restaurant called Da Marcello on the Borgo Pio. This became our main dinner spot and while not particularly exciting, served our purpose well. After dinner, we reprised our tradition of praying the Holy Rosary in St. Peter’s Square and praying for our Holy Father’s intentions below his windows.
