This past November, the majority of the Juniors and Seniors at Holy Family Academy in Manassas, Virginia went ad limina Apostolorum -- to the thresholds of the Apostles. Where, exactly, did we go? Here is a summary of the sites we visited:
Nota bene, the list begins with those sites that the entire group made it to, followed by those that only some visited in the supplement at the end of the list. The Churches visited are numbered...
22.XI, Tuesday, Feast of St. Cecilia:
1) San Pietro in Vaticano [St. Peter’s at the Vatican]: The great Vatican Basilica, St. Peter’s. In this basilica is buried most of the popes, including St. Peter, St. Leo the Great, St. Gregory the Great, St. Pius X, Blessed Innocent XI, Blessed John XXIII, and Blessed John Paul II. Also buried here is St. Josaphat, and the Apostles Simon and Jude. In the realm of art and architecture, notable is the dome of Michelangelo, the façade of Carlo Maderno, and the baldacchino and colonnade of Gianlorenzo Bernini.
2) Santa Maria alle Fornaci: This was the modest Trinitarian Church next to the Casa where we stayed. It was here that we had Mass our first afternoon in Rome.
23.XI, Wednesday, Feast of St. Clement:
Pope Paul VI Audience Hall: It was here that we had the opportunity to see the Holy Father, Benedict XVI, at the Wednesday general audience. The successor of St. Peter, rather than the architecture was the highlight here!
Ponte Sant’Angelo [Bridge of the Angels]: We crossed this historic bridge on our way into the Campo Marzio neighborhood of Rome. It crosses the Tiber next to the imposing Mausoleum of Hadrian (Castel Sant’Angelo) and affords great views of St. Peter’s. Of course, the sculptures of the angels with the instruments of the Passion are memorable.
Via della Coronari: This street, named for the Rosary sellers or Coronari, was the traditional medieval route from the center of Rome to the Vatican.
3) San Salvatore in Lauro: This Church off of the historic Via della Coronari sat near the Ponte Sant’Angelo where a grove of Laurels once grew. This is the burial place of Pope Eugene IV and the site of modern devotion to Saint Pio and Blessed John Paul II.
4) Sant’Agnese in Agone: This Church on Piazza Navona was designed by Francesco Borromini, and sits on the site of the martyrdom of St. Agnes. Her skull is kept here.
Piazza Navona: This oval piazza was once the Circus of Domitian, and today is the site of three fountains, the largest being Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers at the center of the Piazza.
5) San Luigi dei Francesi: This baroque church is the French national church in Rome. The Caravaggio paintings of St. Matthew are its most famous feature.
6) Pantheon [Church of Our Lady of the Martyrs]: This unusual church was once a pagan temple dedicated to “all the gods” constructed in the waning years of the Roman Republic. It is notable for its massive concrete dome, the tomb of Raphael, and the tombs of the liberal 19th and 20th century Italian kings.
7) Santa Maria sopra Minerva: This Dominican Gothic church is the burial place of, amongst others, St. Catherine of Siena, Beato Fra Angelico, Pope Clement VII and Pope Leo X. The statue of Our Lord by Michelangelo and the Bernini elephant obelisk in the piazza out front are notable.
At this point on Wednesday, the group broke into parts – see the supplement.
24.XI, Thursday, Feast of the Vietnamese Martyrs: [DAY TRIP TO ASSISI]
8) San Francesco in Assisi: This 13th century Italian gothic basilica is the location of the tomb of St. Francis of Assisi. It is notable for its rather extensive frescoes of the lives of St. Francis, St. Martin and many others. It sits at the west end of Assisi.
9) Santa Chiara in Assisi: This pink and white church is the location of the tomb of St. Clare. It also houses the San Damiano cross of St. Francis of Assisi.
10) Santa Maria degli Angeli in Assisi: This is the church inside the church: the basilica that houses the Porziuncola, the little chapel restored by St. Francis. It was here in the valley below the town of Assisi, and inside the grounds of this basilica, that St. Francis died.
25.XI, Friday, Feast of St. Catherine of Alexandria:
11) San Giovanni in Laterano [St. John Lateran]: The pope’s cathedral, this basilica is packed with numerous items of note. The Borromini interior and the Galilei façade can hardly compare to the spiritual riches: the relics of the heads of Peter and Paul, the table of the Last Supper, the papal altar of St. Peter, the tombs of Popes Leo XIII, Innocent III, and Martin V.
Scala Santa [The Holy Stairs]: These stairs were those brought back from Jerusalem by St. Helen. They originally lead to the praetorium there, where Our Lord would have been questioned by Pontius Pilate. Upstairs is the “Holy of Holies” where an image reputed to have been painted by St. Luke is kept.
13) Santa Croce in Gerusalemme: This church is on the location of what was once the palace of St. Helen. Here is housed the relics of the Passion: part of the inscription, a nail, a couple of thorns, parts of the True Cross, the cross beam of the good thief’s cross, and the finger of St. Thomas.
14) Santa Maria Maggiore: This Patriarchal Basilica stands on the Esquiline hill, where, on 5 August, it once snowed to indicate the place the church was to be built. This is another church packed with notable items: the tombs of St. Pius V, Popes Paul V, Sixtus V, Clement VIII, St. Matthias, St. Jerome, Gianlorenzo Bernini, the crib of the Nativity, and the miraculous image of Our Lady Salus Populi Romani. For those interested, the Torriti apse mosaic, and the gold ceiling decorated with the first gold brought back from the New World, are worth noting.
Colosseum: This, the Flavian Amphitheatre is one of the iconic symbols of Rome.
Circus Maximus: This was the largest of the many circuses or race tracks, of Rome. This sits between the Palatine and Aventine Hills. We had the good fortune of reviving the races here.
Forum Boarium: This was the square in front of Santa Maria in Cosmedin that boasted the best surviving examples of Republic Roman temple architecture.
15) Santa Maria in Cosmedin: This Romanesque Church is now and Eastern Catholic church, but remains most famous for the “mouth of truth” out front. Inside, however, the skull of St. Valentine is kept.
16) San Giorgio in Velabro: This ancient Romanesque Church houses the relics of St. George, and was once the titular church of Blessed Cardinal John Henry Newman.
26.XI, Saturday, Feast of St. Sylvester:
Catacombs of San Callisto: We toured this massive underground Christian cemetery, and heard Mass here, as well. It was in these catacombs that St. Cecilia and a number of Pontiffs were buried.
17) San Paolo fuori le mura: This is the Patriarchal Basilica where Saint Paul the Apostle is buried. It is memorable for its medallions of all of the popes, and for the splendid courtyard in the front with its statue of Paul. This church is Romanesque in style, rebuilt in the 19th century imitating the earlier design of the church.
27.XI, Sunday, First Sunday in Advent:
Vatican Museums: Here we briefly toured the Raphael rooms and the famous Sistine Chapel.
28.XI, Monday, Feast of St. Catherine Laboure:
18) Santa Maria in Trastevere: This Romanesque Church was the site of a splendid apse mosaic, the well of oil, and our morning Mass.
19) San Crisogono: This Church in the Trastevere neighborhood was the burial site of Blessed Anna Maria Tiagi.
20) Santa Cecilia in Trastevere: This Romanesque Church sits atop the ancient home of St. Cecilia, and it is here that she is now buried. Famous, indeed, is the Maderno statue here that portrays St. Cecilia as she was found in the catacombs.
21) San Bartolomeo all’Isola: This Church on Tiber Island is the location of the relics of St. Bartholomew the Apostle.
Ponte Cestio and Ponte Fabricio: The two bridges to Tiber island are two of the oldest across the river in Rome. Ponte Cestio crosses from the island to Trastevere and was restored in 370AD, while Ponte Fabricio from the island to downtown Rome and the Ghetto was built in 62BC.
Vatican Scavi: Here we toured the excavations, or scavi, under St. Peter’s Basilica. This included the pagan Roman necropolis and the relics of St. Peter the Apostle.
SUPPLEMENT:
Most Pilgrims, but not all, visited the Churches or sites without the asterisk. Only a very select group made it to the asterisk * sites with Mr. Cole! Those sites with a + were visited by groups without Mr. Cole.
23.XI, Wednesday, Feast of St. Clement:
22) San Ignazio: This baroque church of Saint Ignatius of Loyola is the burial place of Saints Robert Bellarmine, Aloysius Gonzaga, and John Berchmans. It is also the resting place of Pope Gregory XV. The ceilings that “open to the skies,” and the false (painted) dome make this church memorable.
23) Chiesa del Gesu: Often referred to simply as “The Gesu.” This is the Jesuit headquarters church in Rome. It is a splendid baroque church – the prototype of this style, in fact. Here is buried St. Ignatius of Loyola, and is housed the arm of St. Francis Xavier.
Area Sacra dell’Argentina: This city block of Republican Roman ruins next to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele was the site of the assassination of Julius Caesar on 15 March 44BC.
Ponte Sisto: This bridge just north of Tiber Island was built in the late 15th century at the instruction of Pope Sixtus IV, the same pope who built the Sistine Chapel.
24) San Giovanni dei Fiorentini: This is the Florentine Church in the city of Rome. San Giovanni is right across the Tiber from St. Peter’s. It is the burial place of the architect Borromini. It is also noteworthy for the statues on the façade, and for the statue of St. John the Baptist over the altar. It was here that part of the group had Mass, while the others heard Mass at Chiesa Nuova.
25) Chiesa Nuova [New Church]: This, officially called Santa Maria in Vallicella, is the burial place of St. Philip Neri. It is a sumptuously decorated baroque church on the Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
26) La Maddelena+: It sounds as though some, separated from Mr. Cole, made it to this Church, a pink example of Rococco architecture, and the burial place of St. Camillus de Lellis.
24.XI, Thursday, Feast of the Vietnamese Martyrs:
27) Santa Maria sopra Minerva in Assisi: This church, formerly a pagan temple to Minerva, is marked by its columns and bell tower our front.
28) San Rufino in Assisi: This is the cathedral Church of Assisi, and the place where St. Francis, St. Clare, and Emperor Frederick II were all baptized.
29) Santa Maria Maggiore* in Assisi: This medieval Church sits near the south wall of the city.
25.XI, Friday, Feast of St. Catherine of Alexandria:
30) S. Salvatore in Onda*: This little Church near the Ponte Sisto is the burial place of St. Vincent Pallotti.
31) Santa Maria dell’Orazione e Morte*: This little Church on the Via Giulia is dedicated to prayer for the poor souls.
32) Santa Trinita dei Pellegrini*: This Church, maintained by the FSSP, has a splendid apse painting of the Holy Trinity. It sits near the Ponte Sisto and Campo de’ Fiori.
33) San Paolo della Regola*: Another small Church just a few blocks east of Santa Trinita, and the site of an early home of St. Paul in Rome.
26.XI, Saturday, Feast of St. Sylvester:
Pasquino: This “talking statue” was, and is, a famous place to post protests against the ruling government or otherwise critique Roman society. This statue was placed here in 1501AD.
34) Saint Nicholas of Lorraine*: This is a little Church just west of Piazza Navona that has been restored and opened by the region of Lorraine. It is across the street from the German Church, Santa Maria dell’Anima.
Piazza di Sant’Eusachio*: This is the home of some the best coffee in Rome, in addition to the unique façade of the Church of the same name – a stag with a cross between his antlers.
35) Santa Maria in Aquiro*: This beautiful Church was the one that Mr. Cole didn’t really think was worth a visit. It is just north of the Pantheon, and had art vendors in front of it.
Column of Marcus Aurelius*: This tremendous column sat just west of Via del Corso.
36) Ss. Bartolomeo e Alessandro*: This was the little Church on the same square with the column of Marcus Aurelius.
37) Santa Maria in Via*: This Church on the Via del Corso boasted the miraculous well, from which we drank, and the image of Our Lady.
38) San Claudio*: This small Church was notable for the exposed monstrance and tomb of St. Peter Julian Eymard.
39) San Sylvestro in Capite*: This Church across the piazza from San Claudio is most notable for its purported relic of the head of St. John the Baptist.
39) Oratory of the Guardian Angels/Blessed Sacrament*: This was the little Church between San Claudio and the Trevi Fountain that was open and playing music.
40) Santa Maria in Trivio*: This Church, a block north of the Trevi Fountain, is the burial place of St. Gaspar del Bufala.
41) Ss. Vincent & Anastasia*: This is the Church that sits in the square with the Trevi Fountain, and now seems to be used by the Bulgarian Orthodox.
42) Ss. Apostoli*: This magnificent Church was the burial place of the Apostle Philip & James, and also of Pope Clement XIV.
43) San Marco*: This Church on Piazza Venezia, near the massive Victor Emmanuel monument, is the Romanesque Venetian Church in Rome. Buried here are the Persian martyrs Ss. Abdon and Sennen.
44) Ss. Panteleon & Giuseppe Calasance*: This was a little Church on the Corso Vittorio Emmanuelle near the Piazza Navona.
45) Sant’Andrea della Valle*: This is a Theatine Church on the Corso Vittorio Emmanuelle. It is the burial place of Popes Pius II and Pius III; also St. Joseph Mary Tomasi. It is memorable for its large dome, and the giant paintings of St. Andrew’s martyrdom around the altar.
27.XI, Sunday, First Sunday in Advent:
Spagna: The Spanish steps, near the Spanish Embassy, with the Church of S. Trinita dei Monti at the top, is simply a classic Roman scene.
46) Santi Ambrogio e Carlo: This large baroque church dedicated to Saints Ambrose and Charles Borromeo is the church of the Lombards (around Milan) in Rome. It is here that the heart of St. Charles Borrromeo is kept.
Trevi Fountain: Commissioned by Pope Clement XII, this 18th century fountain is another classic Roman landmark.
47) Capuchin Crypt at Santa Maria della Concezione: This is the famous “bone crypt.” In this Capuchin crypt are several chapels decorated with the bones of monks. The original reason behind the crypt – a cemetery had to be moved.
48) Santa Maria della Vittoria: This little baroque gem is a splendid example of that architectural style. Here is housed the famous Bernini statue of St. Teresa in ecstasy. This is also the location of the tomb of St. Victoria.
49) Santa Susanna: This Church, on the site of the home of St. Susanna, is the American Church in Rome, and is the home of a convent of Cistercian nuns.
50) Santa Maria degli Angeli+: This was the Church designed by Michelangelo that was set into the baths of Diocletian.
28.XI, Monday, Feast of St. Catherine Laboure:
51) Santa Maria in Aracoeli: This church sits atop the Capitoline hill next to the Victor Emmanuel Monument. It possesses a plain brick façade with rather steep stairs leading to it. Inside, St. Helen, mother of Constantine, is buried, and the miraculous Bambino statue is housed.
Forum: From the Capitoline Hill we glimpsed a magnificent view of the Roman forum from the north.
52) San Carlo ai Catinari: This Baroque Church dedicated to St. Charles Borromeo is only a few blocks south of Argentina.
53) Santa Barbara*: Only a few of us stepped briefly into this little Church on the way to the Campo de’ Fiori.
Campo de’ Fiori: This piazza is a famous street market in Rome, known for its flowers!
Via Giulia: This historic street was constructed by Bramante for Pope Julius II.
54) San Agostino*: This church of St. Augustine has several notable sites and pieces of art: the tomb of St. Monica and a painting of Our Lady by Caravaggio. It has a ceiling similar to that of Santa Maria sopra Minerva, i.e., painted blue with stars.
55) Santa Maria dell’Anima*: This, the German church in Rome. This is the burial place of Pope Adrian VI, the last non-Italian pope to reign before Pope John Paul II. The painting of Saraceni “Miracle of St. Benno and the Keys of Meissen Cathedral” is memorable, indeed.
56) San Lorenzo in Piscibus**: Mr. Cole was able to tour this diaconal title Church with a friend in Rome. Sorry, no fellow pilgrims got to see it. It is here that the original world youth day cross is housed.
FINIS.
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Tuesday November 24, 2009
We landed at Fuimincino Airport at about 7:45 am local time, went through passport control, got our bags, went through customs and boarded a Pullman for Rome. Our accommodations were the Pontificio Istituto Maestre Pie Filippine. Originally I thought it was a pilgrim house run by nuns from the Philippines, but actually the nuns were founded by St. Lucia Fillipini (an Italian foundress whose order specializes in running Catholic schools). The nuns were mostly Italian, but there was one Indian nun who was very helpful because she spoke English.
By the time we got settled in and ready to take in our first experiences of Rome it was about 11:00 am. We started walking down the hill of Via della Fornaci and approached St. Peter’s Square from the south. (The place we stayed in 2005 was halfway down Via della Fornaci and 1 block west up another hill.)
As we entered St. Peter’s Square the massiveness of Benini’s Colonade struck me again like two giants arms of the Church embracing all who enter. It was a sunny day in the low 60’s and we took in the beauty of the Square and imposing façade of St. Peter’s Basilica. Dr. Strada oriented us to the former placement of Nero’s Circus, the necropolis and the placement of the original Constantinian Basilica. There was a long line to get into St. Peter’s, which surprised me. New subtle security measures would continue to surprise me throughout the rest of our pilgrimage.
In order to keep our appointment with Archbishop Burke, we decide to begin our walk to the Cancelleria by way of Castel Sant’ Angelo and the Ponte Sant’ Angelo. We walked by the Chiesa Nuova and the Oratory of St. Philip Neri, but they were closed for lunch (and never seemed to be open whenever we passed by for the rest of the trip).
When we arrive at the Cancelleria and found the office of the Apostlic Signatura, we were ushered into a meeting room lined with books on all sides. Archbishop Burke joined us and greeted Frs. Horkan and Carr, Dr. Belleville and me. Dr. Belleville presented the Archbishop with a spiritual bouquet from all the members of the pilgrimage. Then Archbishop Burke sat down and began to explain the role of the Apostolic Signatura. In addition to being like a the Supreme Court for the Church, Archbishop Burke also likened himself to the Attorney General, since his office is responsible for guiding all the other top ecclesiastical courts in the Church. The Archbishop also answered some our questions and reiterated his stance on denying Holy Communion to so-called Catholic politicians who support abortion. He also stressed that pilgrimage is a special time of grace and great time to hear the call of God for young people. Understanding modern distractions, the Archbishop said that every young person is being called and it is up to them to rise above the distractions to hear God’s call. Jet-lag was a distraction some in our group were seriously struggling against.
After our audience with Archbishop Burke, we broke up for lunch at nearby Campo dei Fiori and met back at the convent for Mass celebrated by Fr. Horkan. When Mass was over we took the rest of the day to take in St. Peter’s Basilica. By that time everyone was very tired, but they were also hungry. We supped at a restaurant called Da Marcello on the Borgo Pio. This became our main dinner spot and while not particularly exciting, served our purpose well. After dinner, we reprised our tradition of praying the Holy Rosary in St. Peter’s Square and praying for our Holy Father’s intentions below his windows.
By the time we got settled in and ready to take in our first experiences of Rome it was about 11:00 am. We started walking down the hill of Via della Fornaci and approached St. Peter’s Square from the south. (The place we stayed in 2005 was halfway down Via della Fornaci and 1 block west up another hill.)
As we entered St. Peter’s Square the massiveness of Benini’s Colonade struck me again like two giants arms of the Church embracing all who enter. It was a sunny day in the low 60’s and we took in the beauty of the Square and imposing façade of St. Peter’s Basilica. Dr. Strada oriented us to the former placement of Nero’s Circus, the necropolis and the placement of the original Constantinian Basilica. There was a long line to get into St. Peter’s, which surprised me. New subtle security measures would continue to surprise me throughout the rest of our pilgrimage.In order to keep our appointment with Archbishop Burke, we decide to begin our walk to the Cancelleria by way of Castel Sant’ Angelo and the Ponte Sant’ Angelo. We walked by the Chiesa Nuova and the Oratory of St. Philip Neri, but they were closed for lunch (and never seemed to be open whenever we passed by for the rest of the trip).
When we arrive at the Cancelleria and found the office of the Apostlic Signatura, we were ushered into a meeting room lined with books on all sides. Archbishop Burke joined us and greeted Frs. Horkan and Carr, Dr. Belleville and me. Dr. Belleville presented the Archbishop with a spiritual bouquet from all the members of the pilgrimage. Then Archbishop Burke sat down and began to explain the role of the Apostolic Signatura. In addition to being like a the Supreme Court for the Church, Archbishop Burke also likened himself to the Attorney General, since his office is responsible for guiding all the other top ecclesiastical courts in the Church. The Archbishop also answered some our questions and reiterated his stance on denying Holy Communion to so-called Catholic politicians who support abortion. He also stressed that pilgrimage is a special time of grace and great time to hear the call of God for young people. Understanding modern distractions, the Archbishop said that every young person is being called and it is up to them to rise above the distractions to hear God’s call. Jet-lag was a distraction some in our group were seriously struggling against.
After our audience with Archbishop Burke, we broke up for lunch at nearby Campo dei Fiori and met back at the convent for Mass celebrated by Fr. Horkan. When Mass was over we took the rest of the day to take in St. Peter’s Basilica. By that time everyone was very tired, but they were also hungry. We supped at a restaurant called Da Marcello on the Borgo Pio. This became our main dinner spot and while not particularly exciting, served our purpose well. After dinner, we reprised our tradition of praying the Holy Rosary in St. Peter’s Square and praying for our Holy Father’s intentions below his windows.
Wednesday November 25, 2009
We got up early for Mass in the Grottoes underneath St. Peter’s. Before and after Mass, many of us prayed at the tomb of Pope John Paul II. After taking in more of the basilica with daylight shining in the stain glass windows and the windows of the dome, we got in line for the papal audience that was being held in Paul VI Auditorium. We all had special part tickets, but somehow we got split into three different groups. Pope Benedict finally came out and spoke about Hugh and Richard of St. Victor, who are well known for their theology of communion derived from the inter-personal relationships in the inner life of the Trinity.
At the end of his catechesis, the Holy Father greeted various pilgrim groups in their native language. The most important greeting came at the end of the English-speaking pilgrims when the Holy Father greeted Holy Family Academy. We all stood up to clap and cheer. This was the third time the Pope was greeted Holy Family Academy by name.
This is a clip of the audience on the Vatican channel on YouTube that pans through the audience and shows several of the HFA pilgrims. See if you can find them.
After lunch we took a walk up along the Gianicolo Hill and got a terrific view of Rome. From there we could see many of the domes and monuments of east-Tiber Rome. At certain spots we could also see the Dome of St. Peter’s behind us. After walking by the Paul V Fountain, we descended a series of stairs in Trastevere and walked to the Church of San Crisogono. This Trinitarian Church houses the incorrupt remains of Blessed Anna Maria of Taigi. She was third order Trinitarian and also a wife and mother who lived in the neighborhood. Then we walked to the Church of Santa Cecilia. This church, built on the approximate location of Cecilia’s family estate, houses the remains of St. Cecilia, her husband St. Valerian, and Valerian’s brother St. Tiburtius, all martyrs.
From Trastevere we walked across Tiber Island and past the Jewish Synagoge. The path led us down into the Roman ruins around Teatro Marcello. The light and shadows from the ruins made it feel like being back in Imperial Rome. From there we walked to Santa Maria are Coeli and climbed 124 stairs up to the church. In the church, the parish was having their monthly blessing of the oil used to light the lamps of Baby Jesus Chapel. This carving of the baby Jesus from Olive wood has a devoted following in Rome and is credited with a lot of miracles and answered prayers over the centuries. I had heard about this ceremony for a long time, but had never had the good fortune to making it to one. After the blessing of the oil, many of us got in line to be blessed by the baby Jesus and take a little bottle of blessed oil.
Our last church of that day was the mighty Gesu, one of the main Jesuit churches in Rome. There we venerated the relics of St. Francis Xavier and the tomb of St. Ignatius Loyal. The ceiling had been restored since the last time we had been there and it looked vibrant and beautiful. It really is one of the most splendid baroque churches in the world. My favorite piece of art in the church is a quiet tender sculpture of St. Ann teaching the child Mary in the left transept chapel.
At the end of his catechesis, the Holy Father greeted various pilgrim groups in their native language. The most important greeting came at the end of the English-speaking pilgrims when the Holy Father greeted Holy Family Academy. We all stood up to clap and cheer. This was the third time the Pope was greeted Holy Family Academy by name.
This is a clip of the audience on the Vatican channel on YouTube that pans through the audience and shows several of the HFA pilgrims. See if you can find them.
After lunch we took a walk up along the Gianicolo Hill and got a terrific view of Rome. From there we could see many of the domes and monuments of east-Tiber Rome. At certain spots we could also see the Dome of St. Peter’s behind us. After walking by the Paul V Fountain, we descended a series of stairs in Trastevere and walked to the Church of San Crisogono. This Trinitarian Church houses the incorrupt remains of Blessed Anna Maria of Taigi. She was third order Trinitarian and also a wife and mother who lived in the neighborhood. Then we walked to the Church of Santa Cecilia. This church, built on the approximate location of Cecilia’s family estate, houses the remains of St. Cecilia, her husband St. Valerian, and Valerian’s brother St. Tiburtius, all martyrs.
From Trastevere we walked across Tiber Island and past the Jewish Synagoge. The path led us down into the Roman ruins around Teatro Marcello. The light and shadows from the ruins made it feel like being back in Imperial Rome. From there we walked to Santa Maria are Coeli and climbed 124 stairs up to the church. In the church, the parish was having their monthly blessing of the oil used to light the lamps of Baby Jesus Chapel. This carving of the baby Jesus from Olive wood has a devoted following in Rome and is credited with a lot of miracles and answered prayers over the centuries. I had heard about this ceremony for a long time, but had never had the good fortune to making it to one. After the blessing of the oil, many of us got in line to be blessed by the baby Jesus and take a little bottle of blessed oil.
Our last church of that day was the mighty Gesu, one of the main Jesuit churches in Rome. There we venerated the relics of St. Francis Xavier and the tomb of St. Ignatius Loyal. The ceiling had been restored since the last time we had been there and it looked vibrant and beautiful. It really is one of the most splendid baroque churches in the world. My favorite piece of art in the church is a quiet tender sculpture of St. Ann teaching the child Mary in the left transept chapel.
Thursday November 26, 2009
We boarded a Pullman at 7 am and headed off to Assisi. The Assisi day trip is always a great change of pace from the noise and traffic of Rome. Two and half hours later we got off the bus and walked up to the Basilica of St. Francis. After finding out that our Mass was scheduled for noon instead of 10 am, we decided to see the Basilica of St. Clare first. There we venerated the body of St. Clare and the cross of San Damiano. From there we broke into smaller groups and explored the Medieval streets of Assisi and met back at St. Francis’ to take in the Upper Church. Even though many of Giotto frescoes were destroyed in the earthquake of 1997, the remaining frescoes still show the brilliance of the painter. The fantastic woodwork and inlaid wood of the choir stalls were also quite inspiring.
We had Mass in one of the chapels of the monastery connected to the Basilica and afterwards we venerated the tomb of St. Francis. Smaller groups took advantage of free time and lunch until we met up with the bus at 4 pm. From there we descended to the lower part of Assisi to visit the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli.
Santa Maria degli Angeli houses the Porziuncola which was the original chapel used by St. Francis and his followers. This small structure sits in the middle of the towering basilica and remains a powerful concrete connection to the life of St. Francis.On the way back Rome, we got our Thanksgiving meal at a highway stop like we have on the turnpike in the States. A smaller group got a quick dinner at a nearby restaurant when we got back to Rome.
Friday November 27, 2009
On Friday we grabbed the infamous 64 bus from outside our convent to Statione Termini and walked to Santa Maria Maggiore for Mass. Unfortunately the tomb and chapel of Pope St. Pius V was being renovated and was closed off to visitors. We still were able to venerate the relics of the Sacred Crib of Jesus. Also in this Church is a terrific relief sculpture by Pietro Bernini, the father of Gian Lorenzo Bernini. It’s easy to see that Pietro passed his trade on to his son Gian Lorenzo and his son quickly surpassed his father in artistry and ingenuity. Gian Lorenzo himself in buried in Santa Maria Maggiore. His burial site is marked by a simple stone in the floor to the right of the altar that says “Gian Lorenzo Bernini brought honor and beauty to Rome.”
Next we walked around the corner to Santa Praesede. This small tucked-away church contains part of the column at which Christ was scourged. It was also the original area for Praesede’s home where she collected relics of the martyrs and expressed a sponge that she used to collect their blood. Later Pope St. Callistus brought the relics of more martyrs from the catacombs to this church for proper honor. St. Felix is also buried here.
Afterwards we walked down Via Merulana to St. John Lateran. This is the cathedral church for the Bishop of Rome and was surrounding palace served as the papal residence up to the Avignon Captivity.
From there we walked quickly down to Santa Croce in Gerusaleme to venerate the relics of the Passion. St. Helen brought soil from the Holy Land and spread it around and then built a church on the site. Just before we got to the Chapel of the Relics, there was a shrine to Antonietta Meo. She was a six-year old girl who died of bone cancer in 1937. The Vatican has officially opened her cause for canonization, which would make her the youngest individual the Church has ever considered for sainthood. Her shrine displayed some of her letters, which are absolutely incredible. The letters are on the same paper that all first graders use and her words unmistakably show her perfect child-like devotion to God. Check out her website here. “Unless you become like this child, you will not enter the kingdom of God.”
This time the area around the relics was closed off and you could only see them from about 15 feet away. It seems like there were many subtle security measures added in several different churches since the last time we came to Rome. Before we left the church, some of the students wanted to sing a few hymns. One of the Cistercians of the Church heard the kids warming up and ask if the students wanted to sing in the Relics Chapel. Of course we said yes and the priest took us to the Chapel and opened the gate so the students could approach the reliquary and see the piece of the true Cross, the Nails and the Thorns up close. The choir then sang several songs. The priest brought the rector of the church to listen. The priests, along with a few Italians, were very impressed and enjoyed the performance. Teenagers singing polyphonic hymns is a rarity in any country these days.
We took the metro up to Termini and lunched in small groups. Some of the kids couldn’t resist going to McDonald’s. With the Euro conversion, we’re talking $8 for a regular sandwich. After lunch we took metro to the Spanish Steps. There were tons of tourists there. Then we walked to the top and headed for the Villa Borghese and the Borghese Museum.
If you can to only one museum in Rome, go to the Borghese Museum. The Borghese has four major Bernini sculptures and several important Caravaggio paintings. Perhaps the most striking Bernini sculpture is the group of Aneas and his father and son. Bernini did this sculpture with his father when he was fourteen. It's clear that the sculpture is more than Pietro Bernini ever accomplished. The piece is probably the best example of classical piety, which boils down to filial piety.
The best Caravaggio shows the Madonna crushing the head of the serpent with the child Jesus' foot on top of hers.
Next we walked around the corner to Santa Praesede. This small tucked-away church contains part of the column at which Christ was scourged. It was also the original area for Praesede’s home where she collected relics of the martyrs and expressed a sponge that she used to collect their blood. Later Pope St. Callistus brought the relics of more martyrs from the catacombs to this church for proper honor. St. Felix is also buried here.Afterwards we walked down Via Merulana to St. John Lateran. This is the cathedral church for the Bishop of Rome and was surrounding palace served as the papal residence up to the Avignon Captivity.
From there we walked quickly down to Santa Croce in Gerusaleme to venerate the relics of the Passion. St. Helen brought soil from the Holy Land and spread it around and then built a church on the site. Just before we got to the Chapel of the Relics, there was a shrine to Antonietta Meo. She was a six-year old girl who died of bone cancer in 1937. The Vatican has officially opened her cause for canonization, which would make her the youngest individual the Church has ever considered for sainthood. Her shrine displayed some of her letters, which are absolutely incredible. The letters are on the same paper that all first graders use and her words unmistakably show her perfect child-like devotion to God. Check out her website here. “Unless you become like this child, you will not enter the kingdom of God.”
This time the area around the relics was closed off and you could only see them from about 15 feet away. It seems like there were many subtle security measures added in several different churches since the last time we came to Rome. Before we left the church, some of the students wanted to sing a few hymns. One of the Cistercians of the Church heard the kids warming up and ask if the students wanted to sing in the Relics Chapel. Of course we said yes and the priest took us to the Chapel and opened the gate so the students could approach the reliquary and see the piece of the true Cross, the Nails and the Thorns up close. The choir then sang several songs. The priest brought the rector of the church to listen. The priests, along with a few Italians, were very impressed and enjoyed the performance. Teenagers singing polyphonic hymns is a rarity in any country these days.
We took the metro up to Termini and lunched in small groups. Some of the kids couldn’t resist going to McDonald’s. With the Euro conversion, we’re talking $8 for a regular sandwich. After lunch we took metro to the Spanish Steps. There were tons of tourists there. Then we walked to the top and headed for the Villa Borghese and the Borghese Museum.
If you can to only one museum in Rome, go to the Borghese Museum. The Borghese has four major Bernini sculptures and several important Caravaggio paintings. Perhaps the most striking Bernini sculpture is the group of Aneas and his father and son. Bernini did this sculpture with his father when he was fourteen. It's clear that the sculpture is more than Pietro Bernini ever accomplished. The piece is probably the best example of classical piety, which boils down to filial piety.The best Caravaggio shows the Madonna crushing the head of the serpent with the child Jesus' foot on top of hers.
Saturday November 28, 2009
We boarded a pullman first thing in the morning and headed outside of Rome along the ancient Appian Way to the Catacombs of St. Callistus. Callistus was a deacon in the early Church who was put in charge of the catacombs. He eventually became the Pope and was martyred. At least nine popes were once buried in the Crypt of the Popes. They were eventually taken by Pope Paschal to Santa Praesede. This was also the place where the tomb of St. Cecilia was discovered.We had Mass on the same ground that the early Christians celebrated Mass. Quite a powerful moment.
Then we went to Tre Fontane, the site of St. Paul's Martyrdom where three miraculous fountains appeared where his head rolled. St. Bernard of Claireveux and his monks took care of the site for a period of time. Now the Trappists care for the site.
Following the path of St. Paul, we continued to the tomb of the Apostle at St. Paul's Outside the Walls.We lunched in the San Paolo neighborhood and then metroed to the Colessium.
In the evening we attended First Advent Vespers with Pope Benedict in St. Peter's. This is a wonderful ceremony that celebrates the new liturgical year. Because only the true faithful know about this event, it is usually possible to get quite close to the Pope. This photo was taken by one of our students.
Sunday November 29, 2009
Vatican MuseumEvery last Sunday of the month is free entry into Vatican Museum. The Church is serious about making her treasures of beauty accessible to all.
Of course, it would take several days to really explore the museum. We mostly concentrated on the Raphaels and the Sistine Chapel.
Angelus
At noon on every Sunday the Pope comes to his apartment window to pray the Angelus. We were there is hundreds of other Pilgrims and Romans.
Holy StairsIt is a custom to ascend the Holy Stairs on one's knees and say a pray on every step recalling the Passion of Christ. It is always a moving experience and never fails to bring pilgrims closer to the Via Crucis.
Santa Maria del VittorioThis work of Bernini is perhaps the most striking sculpture in the world and it's tucked away in a small church in Rome. That's the splendor of Rome!
Capuchin Crypt
Trevi Fountain
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